Mini Longboard / Manatee II | kelp green resin tint

Product Specs

• Dimensions:can be customized in production options area
• Tail Shape:roundpin, squash
• Construction: customizable
• Fins:center fin sold separately
• Artwork: Kelp green resin tint with cutlaps

***Please note that epoxy resin is not clear like polyester resin. The foam structure & S-glass used in fabrication of our epoxies yields a stronger more durable product. Due to these factors, traditional full length resin tints with cutlaps have a much more mottled, hazy and organic final aesthetic than traditional polyester/pu boards do. The edges do not cut as clean & you can see the fiberglass & patches more visibly. Resin tints on poly/pu boards appear more clear and smooth, while the epoxies appear more organic & a bit more rough. Many people like this look as it conveys the nature of the handmade, high grade composite components of the boards. However we like to make surfers considering an epoxy resin tint board aware of this distinctive appearance. You will notice there are very few places in the world where you can order a custom epoxy surfboard with traditional resin tints. We are stoked to make this option available to you. If you like a more organic look you’ll be delighted. If you’re looking for a spray booth style, more plastic wrap look you won’t dig it.

MiniLongboard / Manatee II

Lots of shortboarders have been jumping on this thing and raving. Mini so you can shwang it around easier than a longboard but still catch anything you want. Our laminator swears by his.

The bottom utilizes a concave in the nose for increased lift in noseriding, which transitions to a double concave through the mid-section of the board, then to a concave vee or spiral vee through the fins and last 1/3 of the board.

This board blends a bit of the old world with the new. A lot of times performance longboards lose all their performance because they have way too much rocker/ bottom curve to make them practical.unless your only surfing bowly beachbreakand cmon really?

Nobody wants to ride a longboard that feels like its pushing water.

So, Ive kept this design with a bit of that traditional trim speed concept alive and kickingenabling you to set it on rail and glide and walk the nose. This is done primarily with whats called a three stage rocker, or bottom curve profile which has a pretty low entry with just enough curve up front to make the late take-offs on bigger and hollower days, and the ability to make a nice steep redirecting bottom turn..smooth like butternot margarin.

The mid-section has a flatter run through itthis is where the flow and trim speed come from. Finally the last third of the board I have a pretty sweeping crisp and loose tail rocker to keep her nice and responsive. The bottom contours consist of a good amount of nose concave the front 36 for grip and lift during tip-time. The midsection splits to a double concave or tri-plane hull configuration that flows into a pronounced spiral vee apexing at the fin clusterthis lets her lay over rail-to-rail real nicedrivey like, but not slippynice and positive redirectional flow that gains speed out of turnsthats the beauty of concaves.

I put a subtle chime or bevel out where the concaves hit the railthis keeps the board from feeling sticky and lets the water release out of the concaves and jump off the rails keeping the board nice and forgiving out of turns.

This board is a favorite among veteran traditionalists, pros and beginners alike for its incredible performance and versatility; The staple of my longboard line.